Somme Wisdom: Best Before-Dinner Drinks

Rachael Lowe/Photo: Huge Galdones

By David Hammond

The first drink before dinner sets up the meal to come and stimulates the palate, preparing it for good tastes. Seeking the drinking wisdom of Chicago sommeliers, bartenders and other beverage professionals, we asked a simple question, “What’s the best before-dinner drink?”

Bubbles Are Classic

“To me Champagne represents the perfect beverage to fit within the aperitif category (though certainly it works wonderfully with food!). Not only do the bubbles and acidity start one’s appetite, but they are refreshing and palate cleansing.”—Rachael Lowe, beverage director and sommelier, Spiaggia and Cafe Spiaggia

“The best before-dinner drink is a glass of bubbly.  Sparkling wine is a party-starter, tends to be low in alcohol, and primes the palate. Not only does hard liquor dull the palate, it dumps a lot of alcohol into an empty stomach. Sparkling usually goes well with appetizers and prepares you to enjoy the wine next in line.”—Lisa Fosler Kelly, co-owner/wine director, Bread & Wine

Go Clear with Gin

“Cocktails before dinner should be refreshing and palate-activating. As a sommelier, your guidance in a guest’s experience relies heavily upon a building crescendo, rather than a start-stop-go-again. Avoid heavier cocktails that can be palate-coating (Manhattans, Rob-Roys) and replace with more sensory-activating choices (French 75 or Gin and Tonics).”—John Aranza, co-owner/sommelier, Autre Monde

John Aranza

“Gin and Tonic: It’s light so it doesn’t make me feel full before I eat, and a good quinine bite makes me ready for dinner. I think the herbal quality of a good gin stimulates the appetite. Just in the aromas alone you can pick up the characteristics of thyme, rosemary. Combined with the refreshing nature of the drink, which is quite palate cleansing, I think it makes for the perfect before dinner cocktail.”—Wesley Jackson, Beverage Director at Mercat a la Planxa.

Or Vodka… for the Buzz

“A vodka martini (with a twist, or no garnish; dirty is not okay!) is the perfect before-dinner drink, getting you a little buzzed to whet your appetite. A beautifully clean vodka gets the job done without impairing your palate, leaving you ready for whatever delicious food comes your way.”—Tremaine Atkinson, co-founder and lead distiller, CH Distillery

Begin Bitter

“I like having a cocktail before dinner, preferably on the bitter side. It acts as an aperitif and gets your appetite going. Go-to-cocktail: an Old Fashioned made my way: heavy on the bitters, rye whiskey, raw sugar cubes, Angostura bitters as well as Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters (extra dashes on both), big ice cube and orange peel.  It’s a great sipper and gets everything going.”—Ardit Dizdari, general manager/bar director, Southport and Irving SIP

“A low-alcohol, mildly bitter dry vermouth like Cocchi Americano is the best aperitivo. The bitterness from the cinchona infusion stimulates appetite and the lower alcohol keeps your head square on an empty stomach. I prefer to drink mine on the rocks with a long lemon twist.”—Matt Amann, mixologist, Ceres’ Table

“The Negroni is a perfect pre-dinner cocktail that contains three ingredients known to stimulate the appetite: gin, Campari and sweet vermouth, packed with botanicals from herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables. An orange garnish to complete the cocktail.  The drink is not meant to be sweet, which you don’t want for an aperitif.  Sweetness gives the illusion to your stomach of being full. It is on the dry bitter side but the sweet vermouth and oils from the orange round out and balance the cocktail.”—Raymond Chester, beverage director, Lowcountry

“My favorite aperitif cocktail is the classic Boulevardier. Just like the Negroni, it’s equal parts of Campari and sweet vermouth but substitute the gin with bourbon. It’s quite possibly one of my favorites because it’s complex but each component shares the spotlight. You get hints of oak, bitterness, sweetness and baking spices.”—Tommy Lansaw, bar manager, Wood

Amy Starr, photo Paul Strabbing

Never Too Early to Revive Your Corpse

“While the original Corpse Reviver features cognac, calvados/apple brandy and sweet vermouth, it is the gin based Corpse Reviver #2 that I have been loyal to since my first sip. Its bright acidity and savory absinthe aromas whet the appetite and clear the palate, preparing you to enjoy a beautiful meal… or a second cocktail!”—Amy Starr, bar director, NAHA and Brindille

Last Word First

“When guests sit down and can’t put their finger on how to begin their dining experience, I ask if they’ll be joining us for dinner after their cocktail. When they give the excited, ‘Yes!’ I have a go-to cocktail: the classic Last Word is a fantastic beverage that combines gin, lime juice, Luxardo Maraschino and Green Chartreuse. Higher in acid, this drink is great because the kick of gin sparks your appetite. I’ve been serving this drink for years.”—Bill Anderson, beverage director, Vie and Vistro